PHIL CLARK & SAM HEAVEN
AMBASSADOR SERIES DINNER: PHIL’S KITCHEN, AUCKLAND
It’s not often you get two Ambassador chefs in the kitchen together, but for National Lamb Day this year we were lucky to have a collaboration at Phil’s Kitchen in Auckland. The legendary, Phil Clark teamed up with a legend in the making - newly crowned Beef + Lamb Ambassador Chef, Sam Heaven and the result was a sumptuous 5 course feast of epic proportions.
Phil said he was delighted to have Sam cooking in his kitchen and as the evening progressed it was clear to see how similar these chefs are. Their attention to detail on each dish was outstanding and the layers of flavour and texture they built up through every component on their dishes created a taste sensation to be savoured, yet nothing outshone the hero on the plate – the lamb and the beef.
When you start with an amazing product like New Zealand beef and lamb, you have the perfect base to begin building layers of flavour and texture. Sam is a storyteller who wanted to be present at the table to tell the story from his first-hand experience adding a great touch to the evening.
We began with a canape from Sam of rose cured lamb tart with grilled roses and aged egg yolk. These delicate tarts were a delicious combination of soft lamb with a salty, spicy hit encased in the most delicious short pastry which all just melted in the mouth. I had never eaten rose petals before, but why not – and Sam being a true forager said he had sourced them from the Parnell Rose Gardens! The delicate scent and texture of the roses went so well with lamb and the egg yolk added a spicy kick.
Sam’s next dish – 50-day aged lamb saddle in beeswax with bee pollen, lacto fermented tomatoes, leek, lardo and oxtail leaf is a version of the dish he did for the 2021 Beef + Lamb Young Chef competition. The ingredients reflected memories from his childhood growing up in the Hawkes Bay surrounded by amazing produce including his grandfather’s beehives.
Sam had dipped the lamb saddles in beeswax and hung them to age for 50 days. The result was a tender mildly flavoured lamb saddle with a delicious crispy layer of skin sprinkled with bee pollen which elevated the lamb to next level. The lacto fermented tomato jus had just enough tomato flavour to complement the lamb and the charred leek had a depth of flavour and sweetness making it another perfect match.
Sam’s next dish was Provenance Lamb topside – mixed pasture grown in the paddock with sunflower, quinoa and nasturtium. This dish was inspired by his recent trip to Central Otago to learn all about where and how Provenance Lamb is grown using regenerative farming methods. Sam was impressed with the grains grown in the pasture that the lambs feed on, so wanted to include the seeds of these grains to match the lamb.
For this dish he used lamb topside which comes off the lamb leg. Provenance Lamb has created this as a chef-ready cut which does not require long slow cooking as a leg of lamb traditionally does. The lamb spoke for itself with a rich flavour and a lovely grainy texture. The way Sam had incorporated the grains from the grazing paddocks as three different components on the plate gave us the opportunity to build up the layers of flavour creating a sensational eating experience.
With the lamb well taken care of by Sam, it was Phil’s time to shine with his beef dishes. Phil served up his famous beef cheek ravioli with daikon, baby shallots and caramelised cauliflower. Now I may be biased, as beef cheek is one of my favourite cuts of meat, however Phil’s take on a traditional ravioli dish only served to elevate this humble cut of beef to new heights! The daikon not only served as the vehicle to hold the rich meaty goodness of the meat but added a fresh, crisp flavour to the palate to contrast the richness of the beef. Impressive to the eye, the dish was a colourful work of art with a creamy caramelised cauliflower and delicately charred onions to finish it off nicely.
The palate cleansers Phil served were by no means the poor relation on the menu, but stars in their own right! The beef tartare with egg yolk purée and cornichon jelly arrived under a cloche which released a delicious smoky aroma, followed by his famous tomato, raspberry, olive and prosecco jellies which I can only describe as a mouthful of joy, with a long delicious after-taste allowing our palates to rest a little longer before the next course.
Greenstone Creek kindly provided the star for the next dish of eye fillet with marmite glaze short rib, courgette purée, hempseed and pine nut crumbs. This dish was a sight to behold with Phil’s signature plating skills allowing us to feast with our eyes first. The eye fillet with its fine marbling was a taste sensation with the sticky umami short rib providing a rich contrasting beefy flavour. The pickles added the vinegary cut through to keep the taste buds clean and the courgettes starred as a creamy purée and delicious charred rounds.
With just enough room left for dessert we were presented with an eye-catching wild honey pistachio parfait with golden kiwi fruit, salted shortbread crumble, honey tuille and soft cream. The golden glow of the honey tuille lead the way for us to savour all the deliciousness of this amazing dessert.
What a way to celebrate National Lamb Day! A menu that will be long remembered and a partnership for one night of two very talented chefs. It was amazing to have experienced this and as Sam embarks on the next stage of his career, it might be a while before these two chefs have the opportunity to cook together again. However, I am sure at some stage in the future there will be another Phil and Sam collaboration on the table to showcase the wonderful beef and lamb grown in New Zealand.