WHEN CREATIVITY MEETS FERMENTATION: AMBASSADOR SERIES DINNER AT PLUME RESTAURANT, MATAKANA
Plume Restaurant is the ultimate dining destination. Nestled into the idyllic wine country of Matakana, you will find a culinary genius heading up the kitchen – Beef + Lamb Ambassador Chef, BJ Sebastian.
Unlike most chefs who rely on meticulously planned recipes and ingredient lists, BJ’s culinary journey begins with a vision of the flavours he wishes to showcase. He doesn’t let ingredients dictate his creativity, instead he lets the essence of fermentation guide him.
Through his Ambassador Series dinner, BJ was able to showcase his skill using New Zealand beef lamb which offered the perfect canvas for his imagination. Through fermentation, BJ explores new and exciting flavour pathways, transforming familiar meat cuts into extraordinary gastronomic delights for his guests.
For chef BJ Sebastian, fermentation is a key process in creating his dishes. It is more than a cooking technique; it is an alchemical process that unlocks the very essence of umami. BJ has mastered the art of transforming seasonal ingredients through fermentation and pickling, creating a symphony of flavours that awakens the palate all year round.
Arriving early at Plume Restaurant, the intriguing sight of BJ’s fermentation jars immediately caught our attention. You could be forgiven for thinking you had stepped into a science laboratory, but their presence served a more delicious purpose – they were an integral part of BJ’s flavour making process. BJ pointed out that having them on display creates a great talking point with guests and he often takes the time to come out of the kitchen and proudly explain the fermentation process and how it contributes to the unique flavours on his menu.
BJ is also eager to share his knowledge with the younger generation of chefs and invited newly crowned Beef + Lamb Young Ambassador Chef, Nic Kearney, into his kitchen to prepare a dish for the Ambassador Series dinner. Nic took the opportunity to spend a couple of days at Plume Restaurant soaking up all the information BJ had to offer and armed with a wealth of newly gleaned knowledge and a few new recipes, he was looking forward to his own experimentation with fermenting.
As the evening unfolded, BJ’s menu showcased his incredible skill of coaxing out complex taste profiles, elevating each dish to an unforgettable culinary experience. To begin the evening, Nic executed one of his award-winning dishes which graced the starter menu; beef oxtail tartlet with porcini and Périgord truffle. This was Nic’s upmarket version of a steak and mushroom pie which had the genuine rich flavour of a classic Kiwi pie.
Also served on the starter menu were notable combinations from BJ, such as beef flank tartare, with oyster mayo and Sterlet caviar; Koji lamb with crispy tendon and tamarillo; lamb brain doughnut with Togarashi and finger lime.
With our taste buds warmed up and wanting more, we moved on to the main courses.
Beef sirloin with fermented persimmon, elderberry and Périgord truffle featured delicately sliced sirloin accompanied with the fruity flavours of elderberry and persimmon with a little kick of chilli to spice things up.
It was time for lamb to shine; lamb rack with artichoke crisps, Lion’s Mane, gooseberry, Sterlet caviar and cultured shoyu. This dish not only looked incredible but created waves of complex flavours across the palate grounded by the creamy umami hit of the cultured shoyu, or as BJ described it – an umami bomb. The gooseberry (picked last season, fermented and pickled) added a delightful pop of flavour but of course the hero was the meltingly tender and perfectly cooked lamb with the Sterlet caviar, just enough to evoke a salty ocean flavour.
A refreshing lime sorbet with a touch of Sterlet caviar brought our palates back to a neutral place, ready for the next course which was Wagyu beef cheek with truffle brûlée, tongue garum, green walnut and yeast. This showcased an interesting combination of flavours and textures all supporting the hero on the plate – meltingly tender beef cheeks. The truffle brûlée was an ingenious way to bring an earthy flavour into the dish. BJ’s technique included a sprinkle of tamari sugar on top which was torched so we could hear that traditional brûlée ‘crack’ before savouring its unique flavour. With the addition of a tongue garum and yeast sauces poured over the beef cheek we were once again treated by BJ’s love of ferments, garums and special techniques.
Our final main course was a lamb belly cappelletti with burnt leek, mushroom garum and Périgord truffle. This was a classic pasta dish filled with savoury lamb belly with a hint of harissa, nestled on top of a burnt leek creamy purée and drizzled with a mushroom garum and a shaving of Périgord truffle - another umami bomb.
With just enough room left for dessert we were treated to bone marrow ice cream, chocolate cremeux, grapefruit and coffee. This was an experiment by BJ and I am happy to confirm that he nailed it! It was sweet and creamy with a subtle aftertaste of bone marrow adding an authentic point of difference to the ice cream. The grapefruit cut through the richness and the coffee crumb added a nice texture to round the dish off.
Dessert was followed up with beautiful chocolates handmade in Matakana by Honest Chocolat. BJ picked his three favourite flavours – gin and tonic; raspberry and martini.
Chefs BJ and Nic took us on a wonderful culinary journey at Plume Restaurant that will linger at the top of my dining experiences for a long time. BJ had successfully exemplified the magic that happens when creativity meets fermentation. He unlocked the secrets of umami, creating dishes that redefined the very essence of taste. With the Noma Guide to Fermentation as his muse and New Zealand beef and lamb as his canvas, BJ will continue to captivate the culinary world with his experimental flair.
With young chefs like Nic eager to learn new ideas, BJ is satisfied that he is inspiring the next generation to embark on their own experimental odysseys, and I am sure as word spreads, we will see more of this kind of culinary magic appearing on restaurant menus in the future.