RAISING THE BAA GROWING NEW ZEALAND LAMB - A JOURNEY BY SAM HEAVEN, BEEF + LAMB YOUNG AMBASSADOR CHEF

Beef + Lamb newly crowned 2021 Young Ambassador Chef, Sam Heaven, took some time out from the big city lights of Auckland and journeyed to the deep south to learn a little bit more about growing lamb in New Zealand.    I chatted to Sam about his trip keen to see through a young chef’s eyes, just how he perceived the paddock to plate journey.  What he discovered along the way certainly surprised him and also delighted him and he returned with a newly found appreciation for New Zealand farmers.

Sam was met by Provenance Lamb Brand Ambassador, Michael Coughlin, also one of the very first Beef + Lamb Ambassador Chefs who would be his guide for the next three days.  Sam says it was a great opportunity to chat to Michael and listen to the stories from the good old days of what went on when Michael was a young chef and how much the industry has changed.  And it’s not just changes in the kitchen but there have been big changes in the produce that chefs choose to use today.

Shortland’s Station in Central Otago is the home of Provenance Lamb and has been in the Crutchley family since 1946.  With hard work and good management, it is now home to a regenerative way of growing New Zealand lamb. David and Glenis Crutchley welcomed Sam into their home and were only too happy to show him around their farm and educate him on just how Provenance Lamb is grown.

Sam says he was blown away with the warm hospitality, stunning Central Otago scenery and what he discovered in the paddocks.  Herding sheep, opening and closing gates and studying the pastures and soil were just some of the things that he immersed himself in, to make the most of learning about the paddock to plate journey.

“I was very surprised to see they use so many different seeds such as sunflowers and quinoa to help regenerate the soil.  They get the biology right which means they don’t need to use chemicals to help the grass grow.  They have created a more natural way of looking after their pasture which is obviously better for the environment but also improves the flavour of the lamb.”

And after a day on the farm, it was all about checking out the flavour with a large cook up of some of the different cuts that are available to chefs from Provenance Lamb.  Sam says the flavour was really delicate and subtle which he says would open up a lot more creativity for chefs to work with different pairings with the lamb.

Michael demonstrated the different ways that he uses the different parts of the lamb including how to break down the leg – which is not often used in restaurants.  Most chefs want rump or racks and those popular prime cuts, but Michael pointed out that this leaves a lot of legs which are also very tasty and versatile if you know how to use them.

“It made me think about using these secondary cuts as prime cuts and I was impressed with how Michael cooked some topside from the leg as a prime cut – it was delicious and tender!  It also made sense to come up with different ways of using these cuts so they are not going to waste.”

I asked Sam how he had felt standing in the paddock watching the lambs grazing in such a vast landscape and with his newly found knowledge of the paddock to plate journey.  He said It had been very worthwhile spending time in the paddocks learning from the farmers adding that he now had a greater appreciation for the product and the farmers who grow it. 

Sam says he would recommend to any chef to get out and meet the farmers supplying their produce.  I have a better understanding of the product which in a way makes it easier for me as a chef to get inspired to create my lamb dishes.  It helps you to think of ways you can create a lamb dish using products from around where the lamb is grown – for example I already make a sunflower seed purée to go with lamb and this would be a perfect accompaniment to use with Provenance Lamb.

 Sam says he also felt a lot of excitement for the future of farming in New Zealand – when you talk about grass fed lamb you know the lambs are eating grass, but then you come to a farm like this and it’s mind blowing what they are doing – it’s about how they are farming and not what they are farming and not taking away from the eco system, but working with it.

 “There is a lot of work being done by farmers that I had no idea about.  The trip has been invaluable to me as a chef and opened my eyes to the different grades of lamb and farming and to the sense of what and where New Zealand farming will be going in the future.  This in turn has an effect on us as young chefs and what we can create on the plate to showcase that.  I am so keen to be able to create dishes that speak for themselves and tell the paddock to plate story to create memorable eating experiences for diners.”

Sam finished his three days in the deep south with a visit to Totara Estate in Oamaru.  There he learnt the history of New Zealand lamb and all about the innovative ideas which kick started our lamb export market.  Sam is also excited about National Lamb Day coming up when he will collaborate with Ambassador Chef Phil Clark at Phil’s Kitchen on May 25th.

“It feels awesome to be collaborating with Phil Clark who has had such a wealth of experience from around the world.  To have the opportunity to work with him and to get an insight into how he runs his kitchen is going to be amazing.  Serving my lamb dish alongside his creations will be a career highlight for me.”

And if you missed out on tickets to Phil’s Kitchen for National Lamb Day, then don’t worry you can always head along any week night and check out his delicious menu.  Just mention New Zealand lamb and I am sure Phil will create one of his mouth-watering masterpieces for you.